The Mantua-Maker

No. 1500-2
Fastens up the front, or may be left open.
May be lined or unlined.
With or without shoulder wings or a collar.
Many sleeve options:
 - Two lengths of hanging round sleeves
 - Long straight hanging sleeve
 - Short sleeves or Sleeveless


This garment is designed to fit over a 4’ in diameter farthingale.

This pattern includes 19 pages of instructions with historical tips, and 5 pattern sheets. It is printed on bond paper, and enclosed in a white paper envelope.

All sizes Petite – X-large are included. Fabric amounts depend more on height than on size – it is set up for someone who is 5’2” to 5’11” (marked as Petite, Medium, Tall and Very Tall). If you are shorter or taller than the marked increments, you will need to shorten or lengthen this pattern.

In Spain it was called a ropa. In France it was the marlotte, in Holland it was a vlieger, in Italy, simarra. In England, one name for it was circot or surcoat. The Spanish loose gown was a very popular garment for noble and middle class women in Europe for nearly a century and a half. It became popular in England during the brief reign (1553-1558) of Queen Mary, after her marriage to Philip of Spain, and was worn well into the 1600’s.

The loose gown normally was worn over a kirtle, but it may have been worn over a bodice and skirt instead, especially when worn open. These were worn over a pair of bodies (otherwise known today as a corset), a farthingale (optional, depending on social status or pretensions), a bumroll, an underskirt or two (or more, if no farthingale was worn), and a shift.

 1500 - 1630 Spanish Loose Gown Pattern

This costume was created for Costume Con in Australia in 2002.

It was called, if I remember right,

Desert Renaissance.

Someday I'll find the time to make a more normal version. :-)

Historical Sewing Patterns