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February 9, 2009 There is a wealth of sources
for historical clothing and costume research. The variations in corsets, sleeves, skirts and jackets since the 16th century
can be traced nearly to the year. Fashion reviews from the period are plentiful and not overly difficult to interpret.
But what do you make of a reference to an Abraham skirt with fauvre ribbon embellishments? Would you realize the skirt
was a dingy yellow and the ribbons were deep yellow? Unlikely; and most sources would not be able to enlighten you. By dint
of extensive research and library searches, you could probably find out, but the road would be difficult.
Elephant’s
Breath & London Smoke helps address this difficulty. Historic costume researcher and pattern designer Deb Salisbury has
collated references from hundreds of sources to produce this fascinating palette of colour names from the last 400 years.
She begins with the dictionary. Over 200 pages of color names and descriptions from Aaz (a red dye from India)
to Zulu pink (a pale strawberry tinge). Dictionaries, of course, aren’t meant to be read straight through. But dipping
into the entries a bit at a time and finding those gems of shade, pigment and language is a delight.
Deb also
includes sections with commentary from various periods addressing colour and fashion, historical color names ( covering cloths,
dyeing, make-up and even colours of horses and livery), colour symbolism and harmony of colour. It also touches on the conventions
of mourning colors. These sections are wonderful to read. The words of the period are essential to understanding and appreciation
of the fashions.
This book is a delight and an essential addition to any costume library.
And what
are Elephant’s Breath and London Smoke? Well what would be the fun if we told you?Sandy and Pierre Pettinger
January 16, 2009 The intriguingly titled Elephant's Breath and London Smoke: Historical Colour Names,
Definitions & Uses is focused specifically on colors for textiles. This is indicated by the quotes selected, and implicit
in the book's introduction.
It is a straightforward work. The editor, Deb Salisbury, has expended an astonishing
amount of industry in combing public domain sources for references to color names. And there they are, 231 pages of quotes,
alphabetized by color name, with the sources for the quotes at the end of each. Varying color definitions from contemporary
fashion magazines, quotes from Victorian books on Renaissance fashions, mentions of colors with no definition: It's all
there. There is no color in the book--no swatches--but in fact, there is no way anyone can reliably match an old color description
to a color on a Pantone fan. The author provides 42 pages of longer quotes on colors, things such as Victorian discussions
of which colors best suit various complexions and hair colors. She does not attempt to summarize trends in color fashions
or in color naming (a different issue from color use, and closely related to textile and fashion marketing), nor does she
provide a history of dyeing technology. This is clearly intended to be a dictionary, not an analytical work. Sixteen pages
of bibliography are provided so that the reader can compare them to the sources listed in the quotes, judge for himself or
herself whether the source is reliable, and seek further information.
In summary, this book could considerably
shorten the search for definitions of color names by providing quotes from numerous sources--fashion magazines and fiction
as well as dictionaries and encyclopedias--and of different dates. Frances Grimble
January
1, 2009 "Over the holiday season I received
the manuscript for Elephant's
Breath & London Smoke from Deb Salisbury,
and I am simply stunned by the breadth, scope and monumental work of this book. I firmly believe it will become an indispensable
reference tool for those interested in historical fashion and colour terminology, and I'll even go farther to say I believe
Elephant's Breath & London Smoke will become synonymous with other great books such as those written by Janet
Arnold, R.L. Shep and others. I cannot wait to release it." Lorina Stephens, Five Rivers Chapmanry
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